Stitching a pair of jeans involves a lot of teamwork; it requires many hands, eyes, and creative minds working together. The jeans pass through various stitching stations and the job carried out at each station is equally crucial for the final result; a handcrafted pair of jeans that meet our first-rate standards.
Once a pattern is developed and approved by our skilled designers, it will be printed on paper and placed on denim cloth, which is then stacked 100 layers thick and cut with high speed cutting machines into pieces needed for desired designs of jeans. A pair of jeans has some ten different pieces from which they are sewn, like pockets, leg panels, waistband and belt loops. Pieces are sewn on the assembly line of industrial human-operated sewing machines where each place on the assembly line is assigned a specific function and does one job, and all the pieces are sewn into a pair of jeans. Jeans are then prewashed or stone-washed if needed. Prewashing is done in industrial detergent and makes denim softer. Stone-washing gives faded look. It can be done with smaller or bigger stones. Smaller stones fade jeans more evenly while bigger give more uneven texture and lines.
Denim can also be sprayed with sand or chemicals during the wash process to create a worn-out appearance. A finished pair of jeans is then pressed in large pressing machines that press whole pants at once. After those jeans are boxed according to style, colour, and size and sent to the warehouse.
Our jeans are usually made out of 100 %cotton, but there are some types of jeans that have synthetic in them. One of those types is stretch jeans which have 3% of elastane which makes them stretchy. Rivets are made of copper, while the zippers, snaps, and buttons are usually steel. Labels are made out of cloth, leather or plastic, and embroidered with cotton thread.
Lambskin, sheepskin, buffalo hide and cowhide are the hides most commonly used to make Trailblazer leather jackets. The skins are trimmed and sorted according to size, weight, and thickness. It is necessary to remove any remaining proteins that could stimulate the growth of bacteria. To this end, the skins are soaked in revolving drums filled with water, bactericides, and detergents. Hair is removed with the application of chemical sprays or lime solutions. A scudding machine fitted with dull blades scrapes off any excess hair. Another round of washing (de-liming) removes these chemicals before the hides are soaked in an acid solution and then bated, an enzyme treatment to further remove the skins' collagens. Finally, the hides are pickled with salt and sulfuric acid.
The hides undergo one of three types of tanning. Vegetable tanning requires the most time with the skins soaked in progressively stronger tannic acid solutions for several weeks. However, some soft leathers, such as lambskin, may be soaked for as little as 12 hours.
Mineral tanning is significantly faster but can change the color of the leather. For this method, the skins are placed in alum salt-filled drums fitted with paddles that provide a constant agitating motion.
The third method, oil tanning, is the one that resembles the ancient methods most closely. Here, fish oil is sprayed onto the skins.
After the skins have been tanned, they are washed once again and wrung out thoroughly. Then the skins are passed under a band knife, which cuts the skins to a uniform thickness, and placed on conveyer belts which carry them to drying tunnels. Usually, the skins are stretched on frames to prevent shrinkage during the drying stage. To combat the stiffness that drying produces, the hides are sprayed with water and soap and allowed to hang for a period of time.
After the skins have been conditioned, they are placed in machines designed to rhythmically manipulate the leather so that the fibres are further loosened and made more flexible. In the final drying period, the hides are hung in vacuum-drying cabinets.
When the skins are thoroughly dried, they are buffed with revolving steel cylinders covered with abrasive paper. Suede finishes are produced by passing the hides under high-speed emery wheels. At this point, glazes, dyes, and lacquers are applied. The skins are now ready to be sent to the garment factory.
THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS
The development of high-speed sewing machinery changed the face of traditional sewing factories where one person may have worked on a single garment from start to finish. Because leather garments are considered luxury items, hand-construction by highly skilled artisans is still sought by many consumers. However, the following steps are those used in factory mass production.
Garment manufacturers typically employ designers to create patterns from which the clothing is made. Computerized machines grade the designs according to government anthropometric tables which assign sizes based on body height and weight. The computer then produces patterns in a range of sizes from the original design.
The tanned leather is placed on moving tables called spreaders. Although modern technology allows several layers of fabric to be cut simultaneously, leather is usually cut one layer at a time. The pattern is placed on top of the leather. This is accomplished in one of two ways; tissue-paper patterns may be pinned onto the leather, or the pattern may be marked with tailor's chalk. The spreading table works on the conveyer system, moving the fabric to the cutting machine, which is fitted with either rotary blades or band-knives. The table is either guided by a human operator or run automatically. The most recent technological advance is the computerized laser beam system in which the fabric seams are vaporized rather than cut.
Lining material for the jacket is cut in the same manner. Because it is of a much thinner weight, lining can be placed on the spreaders in multiple layers.
The jacket is assembled in roughly this order: the sides are stitched to the back portion, sleeve underseams are stitched together, and the sleeves are attached to the armholes. The attachment of finishing pieces such as collars, cuffs, buttonholes, buttons, zippers, and pockets varies according to the design of the jacket. Patch pockets are sewn onto the side pieces before they are stitched to the back portion, and side pockets are sewn in at the same time that the sides are attached to the back. Generally, lining material is attached to each piece before it is sewn onto the jacket. In mass production, the pieces are moved along a highly sophisticated production line using integrated automatic sewing machines that are capable of sewing as many as 8,000 stitches per minute. In a sequential system, one sewing machine stitches a particular section of the jacket and then moves the garment to another sewing machine which performs the next step. For example, after one machine stitches a cuff to the sleeve, the sleeve moves to another machine where it is attached to the jacket armhole. A tandem sewing system calls for two or more machines to work on the same garment simultaneously. In this instance, one machine attaches buttons to the front of the jacket while another machine applies the collar. Each step, from setting thread and needle positions to aligning the fabric to extracting the sewed materials, is pre-programmed. Each sewing machine is equipped with under-bed trimming devices that automatically knot and cut threads after each seam is sewn. Excess threads are carried away to waste receptacles by streams of compressed air. Operators regulate the work at each station with a modified presser-foot or from a control panel. A stop-motion device allows the operator to halt production to make adjustments such as replacing broken threads or needles.
MOULDING AND PRESSING
A number of pressing processes incorporating heat application, steaming, and blocking are employed to complete the transformation of the animal skins into a jacket. Buck presses equipped with controls and gauges to regulate the amount of steam and pressure are used to give the jacket its distinctive shape, whether a bomber- or blazer-styled jacket. Curved blocks are placed around the collars and cuffs and then heat is applied. The blocks are removed, leaving the collars and cuffs curved.
Each jacket is inspected by hand before it leaves the factory floor. The completed jackets are then sheathed in plastic bags, packed into cartons, and shipped to the retailer.
The thoroughness of the tanning process is designed to produce skins that are supple and free of bacteria-causing proteins. Garment manufacturers inspect each shipment of skins for marks, tears, stains, and imperfections.
Today's automated sewing systems are self-correcting. Sophisticated lubricating systems composed of pumps, reservoirs, fluidic controls, and electronic controls insure that the garments are manufactured at a consistent level of quality.
Trailblazer motorbike/motorcycle jeans have quality all the way through them. The design and technology used by Trailblazer has produced the best motorcycle jeans. Some of the technologies used in biker jeans are as follows:
The CE label means that the protection/protectors comply with the minimum standards for health and safety in the European directive on personal protection equipment, and have been tested in accordance with the European standard for impact protectors. Trailblazer clothing with the CE label is fitted with CE-approved protectors.
HIGH QUALITY MESH LINING
This mesh lining is made from a high-tech fabric specifically engineered to keep users dry and comfortable. The mesh is made from polyester fibers with an increased surface area. These special multi-channel fibers form a transport system that moves perspiration away from the skin to the outer layer of the fabric, where it can evaporate quickly, allowing the wearer to feel cooler and more comfortable.
HIGH DENSITY POLYESTER
This fabric takes polyester yarn and weaves it with a finer polyester yarn, to create a high woven density that increases protection and abrasion-resistance.
This waterproof coating is applied to the inside of the garment’s inner lining, and the seams are taped to ensure that the garment is waterproof.
COWHIDE (PU COATED)
The PU coated cowhide has all the comfort and protection of cowhide, but adds a PU finish on top for water repellence and weatherproofing. Makes for comfortable riding in wet weather conditions!
Kevlar® is one of the strongest materials available, woven from aramid and nylon fibers. The extremely tear- and abrasion-resistant material is ideally suited to use in motorcycle clothing, especially in areas at high risk for impact. Kevlar® is five times stronger then steel.
Neoprene is a synthetic rubber useful for protective gear. It is abrasion-resistant, chemical-resistant, waterproof, somewhat stretchable, and buoyant.
Polyamide – better known as Nylon – is a collection of polymers that create an excellent resistance to wear and tear as well as a low coefficient of friction, to reduce air-resistance.
PWR Yarn is a 100% nylon thread with a unique internal bonding, which imparts excellent durability, high tensile and breaking strength, and ultimate abrasion resistance. Its strength comes from its unique structure, as a 3-wired yarn with an extra 4th wire spun into it. This 4th wire is heated to bond with the other 3 threads, so it will never unravel or split open. Seams with PWR yarn hold under even the most extreme stress, and are perfect for outer seams on gloves and garments.
Sure grip fabric or leather features a special, texturized print, which offers an excellent grip under high-performance riding conditions.
THERMOLITE® PLUS THERMAL LINER
Thermolite® Plus is manufactured from polyester that is 80% recycled material. It is a high-quality, medium-loft, thermal lining fabric. This exclusive mix of fibers traps the air and retains body heat, keeping the motorcyclist warm. The material also stays soft and supple, without bulk, ensuring maximum comfort and freedom of movement for the motorcyclist.
Thinsulate® is a synthetic fiber used for thermal insulation in clothing. Thinsulate® fibers are about 15 micrometers in diameter, which is thinner than the polyester fibers normally used in insulation for clothing such as gloves or winter jackets. Thinsulate® insulation is soft and compressible.
We've relocated the crotch seams of a traditionally constructed jeans pattern to allow for greater freedom of movement and comfort while sitting on the bike-especially for extended periods of time. This small but critical design is invisible whether on or off the bike and helps eliminate painful pressure points plus it ensures the waistband of the trousers stays in place when seated.
TRIPLE NEEDLE STITCHING
The seams have been triple stitched. This means there are three separate seams stitched parallel to each other to provide extra strength and durability.
EXTRA COMFORT BY MECHANICAL STRETCH
Stretch is always comfortable to wear but mechanical stretch takes it to a higher level. Normally it is the fabric itself that is stretchable; in this case it is the weaving that makes the fabric stretchable.